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Thursday, October 22, 2015
Saturday, October 10, 2015
There are (2) Key Topics associated with 'Gas Hot Water Heaters'. Hot Water Heater Pilot Light - If the pilot light goes out, the water heater won't work. Gas Water Heater Thermocouple - A bigger problem than just lighting the pilot. Some common problems for all Hot Water Heaters are, 'Pressure Relief Valves', 'Leaking Water Heaters' and the 'Water Heater Drain Valve'.
The danger with a gas hot water heater is the gas itself. If for some reason gas is allowed to escape without being ignited, you can get an explosive situation. Gas has an odor to it that you are probably familiar with. The odor is added as a safety feature. 'I smell gas', something you hear or say from time to time is not from smelling the gas at all. Natural gas is odorless. A chemical is added to alert people to a gas build up.
Natural gas can explode. Caution needs to be exercised to make sure the gas is shut off and only turned on when the pilot is lit. Some repairs that result from gas hot water heater troubleshooting are fairly simple. Others may require some work.
Gas Hot Water Heater Troubleshooting - Issues Involved
We are in the whitewater of cost potential here. A new hot water heating unit can run anywhere from $350 to $3,500. Installation costs can run from $200 to $1,600. This is all for a new system. Yes, you may only need a $20 part. Add that to a service call and you should be looking at $100, more or less. Although repair bills of several hundred dollars are not unheard of. Just keep in mind that with the potential above you might get some serious selling when you try to get someone to fix your hot water heater.
Gas hot water heater troubleshooting is moderately difficult. Remember there is a potential danger with the gas. Natural and propane gas can explode. Never attempt a repair unless you have turned the gas off and are thoroughly familiar with safe working practices.
WARNING!! Natural Gas Can Explode! Make Sure the Gas Is OFF!!! The Hot Water Can Be VERY HOT!!! WARNING!!!
Is the pilot lit? Check the pilot light first. Are you getting gas, is it turned off for some reason?
Gas Hot Water Heater Troubleshooting Information
Take a look at the possible problems below. Try to find a match for your situation. Follow the links to get to the right information. Read through that information before you proceed. Many problems can have more than one cause.
No Hot Water
Check the pilot light. Is it on? The thermocouple provides a safety feature for a gas hot water tank. When the pilot is not on, the valve will not allow any gas to be delivered. See the article Hot Water Heater Pilot Light, for the information on what to do . Did you check to see if the gas is on? Go to the article Hot Water Heater Gas Valve, for direction on issues with the gas valve.
Not Enough Hot Water
This gas hot water heater troubleshooting exercise starts with the thermostat. Go to Gas Hot Water Heater Thermostats for a discussion. A clogged flue or vent could be the problem. See Venting a Gas Water Heater for information on keeping your vent clear. A defective thermostat is also possible. The thermostat is part of the gas valve. See Hot Water Heater Gas Valve for the issues surrounding this device. The dip tube is another possibility. The article Hot Water Heater Dip Tubeaddresses this problem.
Pilot Will Not Light
You need to follow the correct procedure to light the pilot. See Gas Water Heater Pilot Light for instructions. Gas hot water heater troubleshooting usually leads you to the thermocouple. Go to the article Gas Water Heater Thermocouple for information on this common repair. The other less common problem would be the gas valve. A bad gas valve will not allow any gas to go to the burner or pilot light. See Hot Water Heater Gas Valve for the issues surrounding this device.
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Pilot Will Not Stay Lit
The thermocouple is usually the problem when this happens. Go to the article Gas Water Heater Thermocouple for information on this common repair. The other less common problem would be the gas valve. A bad gas valve will not allow any gas to go to the burner or pilot light. See Hot Water Heater Gas Valve for the issues surrounding this device. A clogged or partially clogged vent can cause this problem. See Venting a Gas Water Heater for information on keeping your vent clear.
Water Too Hot
The first thing to check is the thermostat. Go to Gas Hot Water Heater Thermostats for a discussion. A defective thermostat is also possible. The thermostat is part of the gas valve. See Hot Water Heater Gas Valve for information on what can be done.
Main Burner Will Not Stay Lit
Again the thermocouple could be at fault. Go to the article Gas Water Heater Thermocouple for information on this common repair. The other less common problem would be the gas valve. A bad gas valve will not allow any gas to go to the burner or pilot light. See Hot Water Heater Gas Valvefor the issues surrounding this device. A clogged or partially clogged vent can cause this problem. See Venting a Gas Water Heater for information on keeping your vent clear.
Black or Rusty Colored Water
This is caused by a dissolved anode. See Hot Water Heater Anode Rods for information on the anode rod.
Slow Recovery Time
A clogged or partially clogged vent can cause this problem. See Venting a Gas Water Heater for information on keeping your vent clear.
Pressure Relief Valve Leaking
Issues with this item are found in Pressure Relief Valves.
Hot Water Tank is Leaking
Depending on the location of the leak, this might be a big problem. Go to the article Repairing a Leaking Hot Water Heater to track down your problem.
WARNING!! Natural Gas Can BE Dangerous!!! The Water In Your Tank Can Be VERY HOT!!! WARNING!!!
Gas Hot Water Heater Troubleshooting - Article Topics
Gas Hot Water Heater Pilot Light
Gas hot water heater troubleshooting always seems to start with the pilot light. Most gas hot water heaters us a pilot light to ignite the burner. There are some more expensive models that use electronic ignition. When the pilot light is out or won't stay on, you will not have hot water.
Follow the above link to get to an article that discusses the issues related to the pilot light. Find out if this is the type of repair you can do yourself?
Gas Water Heater Thermocouple
The thermocouple is a sensor that tells the gas valve when to allow gas to flow to the burner. Gas hot water heater troubleshooting often involves the thermocouple. When they go bad the will not allow the gas valve to release any gas. No gas, no hot water.
Follow the above link to get to an article that discusses the hot water heater thermocouple. This is a common do it yourself repair that you will probably be willing to attempt.
Gas Water Heater Thermostat
The thermostat is part of the gas valve. There is not a lot that can be done to fix one that is bad, short of replacing the gas valve. The main concern with the thermostat is getting the temperature set right. Water that is too hot can be dangerous. Learn what the proper settings are.
Hot Water Heater Gas Valve
The gas valve controls the gas that goes both to the pilot light and the main burner. It uses the thermocouple to determine when it is safe to release the gas. It also uses an integral thermostat to know when more heat is needed. Explosions can result from natural gas that is not burned. Therefore the water heater gas valve has safety devices built in.
Gas valves are a fairly expensive part and are quite a bit of work to change. Is yours really bad? Find out by following the above link. Make sure you have finished your gas hot water heater troubleshooting exercise before you assume it is the gas valve.
Venting a Gas Water Heater
Obstructions in the vent pipe can restrict the air flow to your water heater. This will cause the burner to operate poorly. It could mean a reduced amount of hot water. Badly clogged vents will result in dangerous gases building up in the home.
Installing a Gas Hot Water Heater
When all else fails you may be faced with replacing your hot water heater. Your gas hot water heater troubleshooting efforts have proved that your water heater is toast. This is a big job and you may not want to tackle it. Knowing what is involved can help you to deal with a contractor. Shopping for a new water heater can be a challenge also. Follow this link to get the facts.
Problems Common to All Water Heaters
Dealing With Hot Water Heater Sediment
Sediment can build up in the bottom of your hot water heater over time. This can affect the amount of hot water you have and potentially damage other components. The lower elements of electric hot water heaters can burn out due to sediment. There are steps you can take to remove the sediment. Learn what they are by following this link.
Flushing a Hot Water Tank
Learn what you need to do to get rid of the sediment inside your hot water tank. It can be a little messy, but it will get you hot water tank working the way it is supposed to. A garden hose and a pair of pliers is all you need. Click on the link above to get to the information.
Repairing a Leaking Hot Water Heater
How serious is it when a hot water heater is leaking? That depends a lot on where it is leaking and how much. Some things can be tightened to stop the leaks. A tank that is leaking is not good news.
Find out if you need to look through your papers for the warranty. See if this is something you can fix. Click this link to get the good or not so good news.
Repairing a Water Heater Dip Tube
What's a dip tube anyway? Believe it or not, it is an important feature of your hot water tank. Find out what can go wrong with this part and what you need to do to fix it. Just take my word for it, it is important. The amount of hot water you have will be affected by it, when it is broken. Follow this link for information.
Repairing a Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve
The name tells you everything. When pressure builds up inside your hot water tank, this valve releases. This is a safety feature. A defective valve will release when the pressure is still within safe limits. How to you know when it is bad? How hard is it to fix?
Click on the link above to find answers to these questions. Can you replace this valve if you need to? How hard is it? More questions that this article answers.
Gas Hot Water Heater Troubleshooting Summary
There are several possible problems you can be having with your gas hot water tank. Sorry, but there are more issues than one article can cover. We have tried to point you in the right direction for finding the answer to your problem. Some of the answers to your problem may be more than you want to tackle. On the other hand, some repairs are not that hard.
You be the judge. Gas hot water heater troubleshooting involves some problems that are fairly simple. Hopefully, even if you wind up calling a technician, you will be able to discuss the problem with him intelligently. Asking the right question will often save you money.
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Saturday, September 19, 2015
Troubleshooting and Repair of a Standard Electric Water Heater
No Hot Water
It may take several hours for a newly installed electric water heater to reach normal operating temperature. If you don't have hot water after two hours (water not even warm), first check to make sure the water heater is getting electrical power. Not getting power is a common reason new water heaters don't work.
Checking for Electrical Power
You can check for power with a simple "circuit tester," but for a more complete diagnosis of electrical problems, you'll need a meter that measures voltage.
To check for power, turn the circuit breaker marked "water heater" off (or remove fuses). Remove the water heater's upper access panel. Carefully remove the insulation and plastic cover. Identify the power supply wires. Usually, these connect to the top two screws of the upper thermostat. Turn the circuit breaker back on and check for voltage on the top two screws of the upper thermostat.
The label on the water heater indicates what voltage the water heater requires. Most residential units are 220/240 volts (but some are 110/120 volts). Verify your water heater is getting the correct voltage. If it is not getting the required voltage, there are probably issues with your home's electrical system. A qualified electrician may be needed to fix your electrical problem. Turn the circuit breaker off, replace the plastic cover, insulation and access panel.
Testing Thermostat for Power with Voltmeter
If the unit is powered with the correct voltage, and still does not produce any hot water, the upper heating element has probably burned out. A water heater must be completely full of water before electric power is applied or the upper heating element will burn out (this is called Dry Fire). The Installation Instructions require that a hot water faucet be opened and the hot water allowed to run full for at least three minutes before turning the power on. This is to make sure all of the air has been removed from the tank, and the tank is completely full of water. If the upper element has burned out, it can be replaced. Replacement heating elements are inexpensive and widely available. After the heating element has been replaced, make sure the tank is completely full of water before turning the power back on.
Some Hot Water, but Not Enough (New Installation)
If a new water heater produces some hot water, but not as much as you're used to or not as much as you need, the thermostats may need adjusting. The Installation Manual has temperature adjustment instructions for your unit as well as important safety information about scalding. Water heater manufacturers recommend a temperature setting of no higher than 120ºF. Higher temperatures increase the risk of scalding injuries. Read and follow the temperature adjustment instructions and safety notices in the Installation Manual that came with your new water heater. Remember, higher temperatures (above 120ºF) can cause serious injuries.
Another possibility is that the water heater is not getting the correct voltage (see Checking for Electrical Power above). It is also possible that the water heater is too small or that your usage has increased.
Water Leaks
With a new water heater, most leaks are caused by leaking connections at the hot water outlet or cold water inlet. Occasionally, leaks can be found coming from a fitting (such as around the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve) or around one of the heating elements. Leaking fittings can often be tightened or repaired. It is extremely rare for a new tank to leak.
Water Drips
If drips are noticed coming from the discharge pipe of the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve, the home's water pressure may be too high or a thermal expansion tank may be needed.
Note - If large quantities of hot water are coming from the discharge pipe, turn electrical power off and consult a qualified technician. Do not cap or plug the discharge pipe.
Water Pressure
Check your home's water pressure with a gauge. The recommended water pressure is 50 to 60 PSIG. If the pressure is higher than that, install a Pressure Regulating Valve (or adjust your existing pressure regulating valve if you have one). For water pressure issues, consult your local water utility or a qualified plumber. Most plumbing codes require a Pressure Regulating Valve if the water pressure is above 80 PSIG.
Thermal Expansion Tank
When water is heated, it expands. In older homes, the expanded water pushed back into the water main. Today, most homes have backflow prevention valves which stop the water in your home from reentering the water supply. These valves can be inside water softeners, pressure regulating valves or the water meter itself. Backflow prevention valves (also known as "check valves") prevent the expanded water from reentering the water main. Since the expanded water now has nowhere to go, the water pressure in the house's pipes can increase dramatically, often to the point where the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve discharge pipe drips. A thermal expansion tank has an internal air bladder which can absorb the expanded water, protecting plumbing, appliances and the water heater. For these reasons, most homes now need a thermal expansion tank (and a properly adjusted pressure regulating valve). Not having a thermal expansion tank is the most common reason for a dripping discharge pipe.
WARNING! Do Not Cap or Plug the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve Discharge Pipe. Explosion Hazard.
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Wednesday, September 2, 2015
How to Rewind an Electric Motor
Electric motors are relatively simple mechanical devices, but rewinding the coils on a DC motor is a precise task that should only be undertaken by those who with experience in mechanical or electrical repair. A mistake or poorly-performed rewind job will result in a motor that doesn’t work. At that point, your only options are to buy a new motor or to take it to a professional shop for repair. Given the variety of motors and types of windings, this can only be a general article on rewinding. If you don’t understand the terminology, you shouldn’t be rewinding a motor; once you start removing the original coils, there’s no going back.
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Steps
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1Clean your work surface to make sure it’s free of dirt and dust.Ad
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2Remove the motor housing to reveal the armature, stator, and the windings.
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3Document the present configuration by taking notes or photographs. You may even wish to videotape your deconstruction so that you can precisely recreate the original winding pattern and connections.
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4Take the wire from the tabs on the brush pads. Bend the tabs gently (and as little as possible) and completely remove the wire from the tabs before cutting the coils of the wind.
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5Cut the coils in the wind free from the armature and/or stator. The easiest place to cut is at the tops of the coils at the top of the armature and/or stator posts. Count the number of winds in each coil so that you can rebuild the motor to its original configuration.
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6Check the insulation that lines the actual steel laminate areas of the stator before you rewind an electric motor. If it’s in good shape, you can put it back in place before beginning your rewind. You can replace burned or damaged insulation with similar material or insulating tape.
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7Rewind the armature and/or stator using the same gauge and type of magnet wire that was on the original motor. If you’re more experienced, you may wish to upgrade your wire’s quality, substituting a nylon-and-polyurethane-coated wire for the original enamel-coated wire, for instance.
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8Recreate the exact winding pattern and number of coils around each winding. Take great care to make each coil tight and precise for the best performance.
- When beginning your first winding, leave the end of the first winding free but long enough to reach the first tab. The last winding will attach to the same point.
- Crimp all the other windings down as you work to hold the wire in place. You do the winding with one long wire, so don’t cut anything as you go.
- Before you crimp the wire down behind the tabs, use a sharp knife or sandpaper to remove the insulation from the wire at the point where it makes contact with the tab. Make sure you only remove as much insulation as is necessary to create good contact.
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9Connect the end of the last winding and the loose wire you left in the first winding to the tab where you began.
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10Check to make sure that none of the wires connecting to the tabs are touching.
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11Reassemble the motor housing.Ad
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